
In recent years, a movement to eat seasonally has gained in popularity. While 100 years ago, this was the only way to eat, we have moved so far from seasonal eating as to render it unrecognizable. The advent of the national highway system and an abundance of cheap fuel made the movement of food around the country (and then, world) possible. Eating strawberries in December is now the norm, though their growing season is a short but beautiful run that ends in June in our area. We’ve also been taught to expect tomatoes on the supermarket shelves, big and shiny, all year long. But perhaps when taking a bite of said tomato, you’ve noticed that it tastes a little like the cardboard box in which it was shipped. In contrast, a tomato from your garden or from the fields of one of our many local farmers, explodes with flavor and when paired with basil, also just picked, then sprinkled with a little sea salt, is a crisp, slightly peppery, culinary masterpiece. Maybe it’s this striking difference in flavor and texture that brought us back to eating in harmony with the seasons.
Here on Long Island, our growing season is certainly not what you find in Southern California. Without the aid of season extension techniques, our winter growing options are somewhat limited. However, if you plan ahead when planting your garden, you can harvest kale, carrots, spinach and a few other hearty greens, long into the winter. In fact, carrots taste best after a good frost.
Seasonal eating can also be manipulated if you learn to put food by, something our ancestors did to survive. If you venture into the art of canning, your shelves can be lined with jams and sauces, tomatoes and pickles. Those with the luxury of an extra freezer can chop and blanch green beans for a winter side dish. When those strawberries, blueberries and raspberries came on fast and furious, lay them on cookie sheets and freeze. Once frozen they can be transferred to bags. Heat a few up for a sweet treat on top of pancakes on a dark, cold morning. The extra peppers, chopped and seeded, freeze beautifully and are an excellent addition to a deep pot of chili. You can spend some money on a food dehydrator and put away some dried apples that cost a small fortune at the market. Or you can try your hand at some zucchini chips with a little salt. I’ve picked apples in October that kept for several weeks in my refrigerator. I used some for fresh sauce and others for several different pork recipes. Winter squashes, onions and potatoes will also stay fresh for many weeks and only require a cool, dark space for storage. Butternut squash soup is a simple and elegant first dish to serve Thanksgiving guests. And just as the shelves start to empty, and you feel that ingesting one more tuber dish might make you a distant relative of Mr. Potato Head, the days start to get a little longer and you notice the color green returning to the earth.
This is one of my favorite aspects of seasonal eating. Just as I’m excited to put away my wool socks, I am equally psyched for the change in flavors that come with the new season. We’ll start to see a decline in the heavy, starchy stews that sustained us through the dark of winter. Enter the vibrant and crisp tang of sorrel, rhubarb and knotweed. Spring onions (scallions) and asparagus arrive alongside dandelion greens and all kinds of gorgeous lettuces.
I find myself wandering the yard, foraging for a bright and delicate salad. After I’ve harvested some green and red lettuce, young dandelion leaves and a handful of sorrel, I wash them in my salad spinner (a true necessity for the home lettuce grower) and top with some diced scallions. I recommend roasting the asparagus with coarse salt, a sprinkle of black pepper and some olive oil. Chop and add to the salad. Goodale Farms will have just welcomed a few baby goats and the feta reflects the fresh, creaminess of the new milk. Treat yourself with a little on top of this dish (or just eat it out of the container, as I sometimes can’t stop myself from doing) and finish the meal with a favorite vinaigrette. Balsamic vinegar will add a little sweetness and is a nice contrast to the tart flavor of this spring salad.

Balsamic Vinaigrette
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. black pepper
¼ tsp. ground mustard
¼ tsp. onion powder
⅛ tsp. garlic powder
Combine all ingredients in a lidded container. I use mason jars. Shake well and pour or ladle over salad.
When summer is in full swing, I like to use fresh onion and garlic and will toss in chopped herbs from the garden, to taste. I also switch to red wine vinegar to compliment the flavors of the season. The above recipe will keep for a very long time in a dark cabinet. If using fresh ingredients like in the summer salad dressing, it should be refrigerated. Making your own dressing is easy and cheap. I am often amazed at the prices charged for salad dressings at the supermarket, and equally horrified at the ingredients list. Try this simple recipe and you won’t go back to store bought.
Laurie Nigro is a mother of two, wife of a gardener, and co-founder of River and Roots Community Garden. Laurie resides downtown and though she came to gardening by accident, has welcomed it into her life.